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Fashion in England witnessed significant transformations during the period between 1910 and 1920. The influence of World War I, the rise of women's empowerment, and the emergence of new artistic movements shaped the fashion trends of this transformative decade.
During the early 1910s, the neoclassical style of women's dress emerged as a prominent fashion trend in England. Inspired by the elegant silhouettes of ancient Greek and Roman attire, dresses embraced a vertical and elongated shape. The empire dress, characterised by its high waistline which fell just below the bust, became particularly popular. Over the decade, hemlines began to rise and by 1913, ankles were revealed providing a glimpse of a newfound sense of freedom in women's fashion. The scarcity caused by World War I led to further changes and by 1918, hemlines rose to the calf.
With the outbreak of World War 1 for the first time women found themselves in charge of their household and many took on roles such as bus and ambulance drivers or positions working in factories. This was a key shift as prior to the war a women's role evolved around child bearing and employment options outside of the home was limited to domestic service. The scarcity of resource and changing roles of women influenced women's fashion and fashion took on more fluid lines.
Although flutted skirts and frilly puffed blouses continued to be popular they had slightly higher waistline than those in the previous decade. Long tunic like tops were also worn over ankle length A line or ‘hobble’ skirts. The 'Hobble' skirt was said to be inspired by one of the first women who flew in an aeroplane who reportedly tied a rope around her skirt at ankles height to stop it blowing in the wind. This 'speed-limiting' skirt inspired many comic postcards and only decreased in popularity due to its limited movement which did not suit the war time effort.
At the beginning of the decade, large brimmed ‘picture hats’ were still fashionable, and although there was a reduction in fur and feather use, they were still elaborately decorated.
Towards the end of the decade, with the rise of the automobile industry, short bobs became popular hairstyles, necessitating hats that hugged the head instead of sitting on top.The cloche hat, which emerged around 1917, became immensely popular during the 1920s. It was characterised by its close-fitting, bell-shaped design that hugged the head and covered the forehead, often with a low brim. Made of materials like felt or straw, the cloche hat perfectly complemented the bobbed hairstyles of the time.
Aside from the cloche hat, other headwear styles also emerged such as berets and newspaper boy caps to accommodate the active lifestyles of women who engaged in sports and outdoor activities.
For those who choose to ‘sit out’ the war in fashionable destinations like Biarritz and Deauville there was a need for elegant leisure wear. In 1915, Coco Chanel opened her first boutique, introducing jersey based sportswear revolutionising women's clothing choices.
