The 1940s marked a distinct period in women's fashion. The early forties was dominated by the "make do and mend" culture born out of World War II shortages, while the later half celebrated an explosion of forward-looking fashion as peace returned.
In 1941, new clothing items were rationed and could only be acquired through a combination of coupons and money. Unfortunately, poorer individuals often found it difficult to use their clothing vouchers as their limited funds were primarily allocated to purchasing food. For those with enough money to utilise the vouchers, their limited budgets only enabled them to purchase cheaper fabrics and garments that were prone to deterioration. With many working class turning to the un-rationed second-hand market for their clothing it became common for unused vouchers to accumulate among the wealthy, enabling them to purchase further additional clothing.
To tackle this issue, the Board of Trade established the Utility Scheme in 1942, which aimed to restrict the variety of fabrics and clothes available. This initiative emphasized affordability and ensured that items were made from high-quality fabric that could withstand wear and cleaning. Businesses were encouraged to participate in the scheme by promising not to withdraw workers for the war effort. In return, they were provided with additional materials if 75% or more of their produced items adhered to utility clothing standards. Manufacturing guidelines were established, specifying the amount of fabric required per item. In eliminating non-essential elements from garments, production time and money was also saved.
The wartime era brought about a shift towards practical and understated fashion. Square, boxy shoulders and belted or tailored waists created a more masculine feel while embodying strength and resilience. Shoulder pads made from rags were a simple yet effective way to elevate an outfit, and hemlines rose to just below the knee for practicality, especially for bike riding. Dresses were closely fitted to minimise waste, and a limited colour palette embraced delicate floral and figurative patterns with small repeats to avoid excessive fabric usage.
Wartime clothing needed to remain fashionable for an extended period. Daywear consisted of versatile wool and tweed skirts and dresses, such as twin-sets, box coats, and button-down shirtwaist dresses. Due to their versatility separates remained popular, and trousers entered the mainstream,
While trousers had made several fashion appearances in the 1930s in fashion houses, it was during the forties that they entered the mainstream. Young women favored relaxed "slacks," often worn in factories or during landwork, while mature ladies opted for more tailored high-waisted versions. With trousers covering the legs and stockings in short supply due to silk and rayon shortages, cotton-based tights or "leg makeup" were used to create the illusion of stockings.
In the realm of accessories, hats played a pivotal role in wartime glamour. Despite the restrictions of rationing, women found ways to express their individual style through unique headwear designs that added charm, elegance, and a touch of personality to their outfits. Small pieces of fabric that were except from restrictions, were fashioned into hats of all shapes and sizes. From tiny doll hats that perched daintily on the head, to larger-than-life straw and net creations and the popular wide brim and easy to store pancake hat the creativity was remarkable. Straw hats offered sun protection during the summer, while military-inspired hats and berets displayed a patriotic spirit. Snoods and turbans served as practical hair accessories for women engaged in war work, covering unwashed hair and preventing accidents.
As the war drew to a close, the fashion capital of Paris aimed to reclaim its status, and in 1947, iconic designer Dior introduced the "New Look" silhouette (read more about this fab look in our next blog post). While not an immediate success due to its fabric-intensive nature (one skirt required 15 times more than a British wartime dress), this hourglass figure celebrated femininity with corsetry and fuller skirts, setting the stage for the fashion revolution of the 1950s.
