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The 1920’s was a time for significant social and cultural shifts in every aspect of life. Fashion, in particular, underwent a dramatic revolution.
In the aftermath of World War I, women were determined to maintain the social and financial freedoms they had gained while men were away at war. They needed a wardrobe that aligned with their aspirations. With shortages in materials and a practicality requirement, there emerged a demand for simpler, looser fashion lines that provided freedom of movement and comfort.
In the early years of the decade, barrel-shaped tunics gained popularity. These dresses, commonly known as slip overs or chemises, lacked a defined shape. As a result, the required structure for undergarments shifted, and corsets were swiftly replaced by camisoles and drawers. By 1922, the waistline had descended to hip level, concealing natural curves in favor of a tubular and androgynous appearance exemplified by the "shift dress." Hemlines varied between ankle and mid-calf for the remainder of the decade. Additionally, the 1920s witnessed a notable shift in women's fashion, as they began to confidently display their legs. This led to the flourishing of the hosiery industry, with cotton and woolen stockings becoming prevalent choices.
Fashion colours during the 1920s remained muted, with champagne, faded pink, browns, and yellows dominating the scene. Notably, black emerged as a fashionable choice, paired with gold or yellow, challenging its previous association with mourning. The discovery of Tutankhamun's Tomb in 1922 brought Ancient Egyptian influences to evening wear, with jade, royal blue, and teal hues making an appearance. Dresses featured stiff folds, Egyptian motifs, and scarab jewellery, creating an air of exoticism.
The androgynous trend of the 1920s extended to hairstyles, as women embraced the bob. Hats evolved to complement the new look, with deeper crowns and the bell-shaped cloche hat becoming popular. Cloche hats accentuated the slim, flat-chested, and straight silhouette, while also providing a practical solution for shorter hair and increased automobile use. Head scarves and headbands were other noteworthy accessories, especially for those with bobbed hair.
For the wealthy, "bright young things," the Flapper style epitomised evening wear. Flapper dresses were knee-length, adorned with beading, sequins, shoestring straps, and side splits to emphasise movement during the latest Jazz dance, The Charleston.
Sleeveless dresses were complemented with long fringed silk shawls and pale stockings for added warmth. Ostrich feathered headbands, pearls, and beaded headwear became key accessories associated with the Flapper look, which symbolised rebellion and youth. With shorter hair styles ostrich feathered headbands, pearls and beaded headwear became key accessories.
While the capturing of the popular flapper look on camera was primarily accessible to the elite, the 'Flapper vote' of 1928 marked a significant milestone by granting women equal voting rights to men. This was achieved by lowering the voting age for women from 30 to 21, ensuring that all women could participate in the electoral process.
The simplification of fashion lines led to an increase in home sewing and the production of easy-to-wear clothing. The advancements in production techniques during the war influenced the democratisation of fashion by enabling large volumes of garments to be quickly produced. Home sewing and affordable fashion magazines allowed middle-class individuals to embrace the latest trends.
Style icons such as Louise Brooks, Zelda Fitzgerald, and Josephine Baker embodied the spirit of the Flapper movement, while Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel revolutionized fashion with her emphasis on comfort and style, epitomized by the iconic Little Black Dress.
